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Guides · 5 min read

Hydrotherapy facial or classic deep cleansing facial: differences and which to choose

By Marta Fernández · Updated

Daisies floating on rippling water with reflections over a pale towel

‘Should I have a classic facial or a hydrotherapy facial?’ It’s a very reasonable question, because both are presented as cleansing facials and both leave your skin looking great. But they don’t work the same way, and they don’t suit every skin equally. Here are the real differences, without the marketing, so you can choose with confidence.

Two different ways to cleanse

The classic deep cleansing facial

It’s the traditional facial, and it’s still around for good reason. After removing make-up, the skin is exfoliated; then steam softens the hardened oil inside the pores and the blackheads that release with gentle pressure are removed by manual extraction. It finishes with a toner, a mask suited to your skin, moisturiser and sunscreen.

Its strength is extraction: no machine clears a deep, hardened comedone with the precision of skilled hands. Its weak spot is that it leaves some redness for a few hours and, on sensitive skin, the steam and extractions can be too much.

The hydrotherapy facial

It’s a more recent technique, part of the hydradermabrasion or hydro-exfoliation family. A handpiece moves over the skin delivering water and cosmetic solutions while gentle suction lifts away dead cells, oil and surface impurities. Hydrating actives and a mask are then applied.

Its strength is that it cleanses and hydrates at the same time without being harsh: there’s no steam and no manual extraction, and skin comes out plump with little or no redness. Its limit is that deep, very hardened blackheads don’t always come out with suction alone.

A word on the ‘before and after’ jar

Some hydradermabrasion machines collect what’s been suctioned in a clear container, and photos of that cloudy liquid are often shared as proof of what’s come out of the skin. It’s worth knowing that the container mostly holds water, product, dead cells and surface oil. It shows the technique is cleansing, but it isn’t a measure of how many pores have been cleared.

Which skin benefits most from each

If your skin… It usually does better with
Is oily, with lots of blackheads on the nose and chin Classic facial
Is combination, with a congested T-zone and tight cheeks Alternating the two
Is dry or dehydrated Hydrotherapy facial
Is sensitive or flushes easily Hydrotherapy facial
Gets the occasional spot but isn’t mid-breakout Classic facial, with hydrotherapy facials in between
Needs to look its best for an event in a few days Hydrotherapy facial

Neither is suitable for active inflamed acne with painful spots or cysts. In that case, the first step is to see your dermatologist.

If it’s your first time

If you’ve never had either and aren’t sure of your skin type, starting with an assessment settles the question. Skin with lots of congested pores will appreciate a first classic facial to ‘reset’ it; from then on, the hydrotherapy facial can become your maintenance facial. For sensitive or dry skin, on the other hand, it makes sense to go straight to the hydrotherapy facial.

The experience in the treatment room

For many people, the most obvious difference is how the session feels.

In the classic facial, there’s a very pleasant part (cleansing, warm steam, a mask, a massage) and a less comfortable part, the extractions, which can cause mild discomfort on the nose and chin. Afterwards, those areas may stay a little red for a few hours.

In the hydrotherapy facial, the whole session feels cool and gentle. You’ll feel the water and light suction moving over your skin, a little more noticeable on the nose. Afterwards, your skin usually looks even and glowing, ready for the rest of your day.

How often, and how to alternate them

The classic facial is usually repeated every 4–6 weeks for oily skin and every 2–3 months for normal or dry skin. Having it more often causes irritation.

The hydrotherapy facial can be done more often because it’s less harsh: as a one-off whenever your skin needs it, or as a course of four sessions every 2–4 weeks if you want to consolidate hydration and radiance.

A routine that works well for combination or oily skin is to combine them: a classic facial when pores get congested and one or two hydrotherapy facials in between. That way skin stays clear without being put through extractions too often.

And in Málaga, with the sun and humidity

Málaga’s climate has an interesting effect on skin: summer heat and humidity increase oil and sweat, while sun, wind and air conditioning dehydrate it. It’s not unusual to see skin that’s shiny on the forehead and tight on the cheeks at the same time.

For that kind of skin, the hydrotherapy facial is especially useful in summer: it cleanses without leaving skin sensitive to the sun. At the end of summer, when pores are clogged with sweat and sunscreen, a classic facial is often a good ‘reset’. Either way, sunscreen every day.

Before an event

If you’ve got a wedding, an interview or a photo shoot coming up:

  • Hydrotherapy facial: one or two days before. It doesn’t leave marks and skin looks hydrated.
  • Classic facial: ideally two or three days before, so any redness has time to fade.
  • Never try something new the day before. If you don’t know how your skin reacts, do a trial run weeks in advance.

At Narumi

At Narumi, on Calle Cristo de la Epidemia in Málaga city centre, we offer both. Marta Fernández, an advanced aesthetics specialist, assesses your skin and recommends one, the other or a combination, depending on what we see and what you’re looking for. If extractions don’t make sense for your skin at any point, we’ll tell you.

To match the frequency to your skin type, see our guide on how often to get a facial.

Hydrotherapy facial and classic facial compared
Hydrotherapy facialClassic deep cleansing facial
How it cleansesWater, exfoliating solutions and gentle suctionExfoliation, steam and manual extractions
Deep blackheadsImproves how they look; doesn't clear them allClears them selectively
HydrationThe focus of the sessionAt the end, with a mask and cream
Redness afterwardsNone or minimalSlight, for a few hours
Sensitive skinVery well suitedWith adjustments and minimal extractions
Before an eventOne or two days beforeTwo or three days before

Frequently asked questions

Can a hydrotherapy facial replace a classic facial?

For many people it can become their maintenance facial, especially if their skin is sensitive, dry or has little congestion. For oily skin with stubborn blackheads it doesn't fully replace it: manual extractions are still needed from time to time. Most people alternate the two.

Which leaves skin cleaner?

It depends what you mean by clean. To clear deep comedones, the classic facial. To remove dead cells and surface oil and leave skin even and hydrated, the hydrotherapy facial does a very good job. They're different kinds of cleanse, which is why so many people benefit from alternating them through the year.

Which is better for acne?

With active inflamed acne, neither is the first step: see your dermatologist. If you're blemish-prone but not mid-breakout, the classic facial helps clear congested pores, and a hydrotherapy facial can keep skin clear between facials without irritating it.

Which should I have if I have combination skin?

Lots of combination skin does well alternating: a classic facial when the T-zone gets congested with blackheads, and a hydrotherapy facial in between to hydrate the cheeks without irritating them. At your assessment we'll suggest a rhythm and adjust it to how your skin responds.

Which is more relaxing?

The hydrotherapy facial is usually more pleasant from start to finish, as there's no extraction stage. The classic facial has very relaxing moments too, such as the mask and the final massage, but extractions can cause mild discomfort.

Related treatments

  • Hydro-facial treatment with a suction handpiece on the skin

    From €59

    Hydrotherapy facial

    Cleansing, gentle exfoliation and deep hydration with water and cosmetic actives, with no steam or manual extractions. Clean, plump skin without redness.

    View treatment
  • Aesthetician performing a facial cleanse with a magnifying lamp in a white room

    From €25

    Deep cleansing facial

    A thorough professional facial with exfoliation, gentle extractions and products chosen for your skin type. The foundation of any good skincare routine.

    View treatment
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